As usual, I discovered the charm of this small town by pure chance. I was coming back with my best half from Novara and for the umpteenth time we were crossing Carpignano without stopping. But this time I couldn't resist and, and since we had time, I asked for a short stop. Of course, my instincts didn't disappoint me, because it was really worth it.
Carpignano is not a city of art and its historic center is tiny. Parked the car under the canopy (it is also historic because it dates back to the beginning of the last century) we went into the historic center consisting of a small street main and some side alleys. The main street, still covered in pebbles and surrounded by the typical brick and stone houses of Sesia, led us to the Castello — Ricetto, whose core dates back to XI century. And be careful, don't expect a castle with towers and battlements.
To me, who I'm inexperienced, it seemed rather like a typical Italian farmhouse with a nice courtyard surrounded by buildings, dwellings and buildings where cattle were kept and and agricultural products. On one of the side alleys of the ricetto, Vicolo San Martino, overlook the fifteenth-century houses. In another building, a splendid press from 1575 is preserved. It is the oldest specimen of press preserved in Piedmont.
I don't know how you are, but I'm always impressed when I see things so ancient. As a result, I also liked the barrels kept in the adjacent room: they were only large, but also old. In this building, the construction of the Museum of Peasant Civilization is planned in the future. Also within the framework of the castle is the church of San Pietro dating back to the 11th century. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the right key to open it and therefore we didn't enter.
And speaking of the keys: generally both the church and the press are open during patronal feasts and other special occasions. But we met a boy who brought us the keys, normally kept by ProLoco or in common, and did a bit of a guide. Always thanks to him we knew about the party that had to start in the evening (in fact we noticed the preparations: the boys who carried or placed the tables on the streets). This is the festival entitled “To the court of the salam d'la duja” dedicated, in fact, to this Piedmontese specialty.
It is the salami made with pork meat and bacon fat that are ground, seasoned and stuffed into the twisted gut of beef. After ripening, they are placed in a bowl called duja and covered with melted lard that keeps them soft for more than a year.And this goodness is the protagonist of three days during which you eat, drink, dance and have fun. We clearly eat not only the duja salami, but also other typical dishes and local products. When we were there, the menu included various cold cuts, paniscia, roast meat, dessert and coffee.
Not to forget the best wines in the area and there are lots of them, believe me. The dinner was accompanied by live music and everything took place in the medieval setting of the streets of Castello Ricetto. Of course it all depends on the weather and that time it wasn't really the best, but we still had a very pleasant evening. However, the festival is not limited only to the gastronomic side: on Sunday the market also takes place and you can also learn about the ancient crafts. I assure you that these days it is worth coming to Carpignano Sesia
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